Fish Creek Fishout (Part 2)
Day 4 – Where to Camp?
The balance of hiking and fishing for the next three days swung decidedly towards fishing. Each day we would hike 3 or 4 miles downstream, set up camp, and hunt for fish. From First Crossing, we moved downstream to a spectacular stretch of river that featured a series of 4 or 5 huge waterfalls, each one unique. Our only difficulty was finding an adequate place to camp. After a lengthy but unproductive search, John and Mike both had the brilliant idea to look on the other side of the river where we ultimately discovered a nice flat spot. After pitching the tents, we all headed to the river to test the waters. Fish Creek at this point is so productive that we were all catching 30 or 40 fish each, mainly a mixture of brookies, goldens, and golden/rainbow hybrids. Because of the harsh environment, these are all small fish, with a 10 or 12-inch trout considered large. Once again, Mike and Pat had the hot rods, and they kept 4 nice fish for dinner.
Day 5 – To the Hot Springs
Our path to the Iva Bell hot springs crossed the creek again at Second Crossing and then detoured away from the river by climbing up and over a ridge on river left (facing downstream). The creek itself continues straight, descending precipitously through a forbidding canyon. The cascades and pools at this point were so enticing that I couldn't help but drop my pack and give the telescoping rod a whirl. I was rewarded with a chunky little golden that attacked my parachute hopper well after the fly had sunk beneath the swirling foam. I paid for my few minutes of pleasure by having to walk extra-fast to catch up to the rest of the group who were well on their way over the ridge to the hot springs.
One of the things you learn by hiking is that you can get by without a daily shower. On the other hand, five days of sweat, suntan lotion, and bug spray can get a little aromatic. And unfortunately, the smell only seems to encourage the bugs. It goes without saying that the pools at the hot springs are a welcome sight. On the other hand, it is easily within a day's walk of the nearest trailhead at the Devil's Postpile National Monument, our ultimate destination, so one rarely finds solitude here. We arrived just before noon and were able to stake our claim on one of the nicer campsites.
Unfortunately, because the hot springs are not on the main creek, those of us seeking more trout action had to continue hiking a good mile further downstream to where Fish Creek emerges from its canyon and rejoins the path. Pat elected to stay and hold down the fort while the rest of us geared-up and went fishing. Thunder ominously echoed off the granite walls as we approached the creek again. While Mike, Jim, and John headed downstream, I backtracked up into the chasm from which the creek emerges. I rock-hopped and climbed as far as I could go until a box canyon and waterfall blocked my path. The fish upstream of this point have probably never seen a fly in their lives, and the trout just downstream seemed equally naive. I even kept a few for dinner. That night after a wonderful trout with cashew-rice dinner, we capped the evening with an after-dinner soak under the stars. Ahhh...
Day 6 – Final Camp at Island Crossing
Leaving the hot springs, we quickly covered the 2.5-mile descent to our final camp at Island Crossing. On the way, Mike walked right past a black bear that was crossing the path from the river. Jim was behind and started shouting at the bear who nonchalantly ambled away. He probably left with the impression that humans are easily excitable creatures. Unfortunately, I was lagging behind because my feet hurt from my ill-fitting sandals that I'd been wearing over my stocking foot hipppers. So I missed all the "fun."
At Island Crossing the tents went up quickly and everyone was on the water in a twinkle. Jim, John, and Mike went downstream while Pat waded upstream. I sat for a while in camp nursing my sore feet. A while later Mike came back shaking with fury. He had been trying to take a picture of a fish with his digital camera when the camera decided that it was no longer taking pictures that day. Mike would have dashed the recalcitrant object on a big rock had it not been for my plea for clemency. On the other hand, Mike probably would have called it a mercy killing.
At Island Crossing the creek meanders through a wonderful meadow filled with brook trout. We were starting to take it for granted that we could throw almost anything in the water and elicit strikes. While most of the fish fell in the 6 to 8 inch range, every now and then a big one would slash at the fly for a pleasant surprise. John had the big fish of the day which we ate with two of my keepers for dinner. John amazed me with the variety of spices he was carrying in his bear barrel.
Day 7 – Up and Out at Red's Meadow
We got an early start on our final day because of the 8-mile and 1,300-foot climb out of Fish Creek. The day began with an immediate 600-foot climb over a series of 16 switchbacks which is best done in the morning. This climb is physically hard and always a bit melancholy because it means the fishing is done and the trip is almost over – like the way a child feels at the end of summer vacation. We climbed a ridge over to the next drainage, the scenic valley created by the middle fork of the San Joaquin River. We followed this valley through dry and dusty conditions to Rainbow Falls and the Devil's Postpile National Monument where we caught the shuttle bus to the Mammoth Ski area and our shuttle car. This area suffered from a major forest fire in 1992 and it is fascinating to see how the forest is rejuvenating itself. However, for hikers, the lack of forest cover makes it a hot, sunny trek.
We were back to civilization with its strollers, bottled water, mountain bikes, and ice-cream cones. These things seem strangely conspicuous if you've not seen them for a week, and an ice cold Coke seems both foreign and weirdly lavish. And now, let's get that beer I've been dreaming about...
A big thanks (again) to Pat and Mike for putting together another "once-in-a-lifetime" trip!