I suppose this story starts with a brief encounter I had with a fellow
fisherman at Asuncion. He was heading home after his son had managed to
step on a stingray at Coyote Estero. We stood in front of the hotel
measuring one another as men often do and I remember thinking rather
contemptuously that this was an obviously inexperienced baja traveler
Four days later we were on the salt flats of Laguna Bocana. The tide
was receding nicely as I parked our rig next to a mangrove island with
a deep channel on the far side that looked promising. The water was
crystal clear. I waded thigh deep scouting out the likely sand flats
for halibut. Meanwhile Alex pursued blue crabs with a landing net,
hoping to catch dinner
The Crab Catcher
Having made a complete circle I returned to the vehicle and rigged us
up for halibut. We worked our way along the roots of the mangroves to
the main channel on the far side of the island. Casting Kastmasters
into the current I managed to hook quite a few bonefish which were
really thrilling on the light tackle.
Meanwhile Alex had managed to snag a butterfly ray in the wing which
kept him occupied for quite some time. He wanted it photographed and so
I made my way to shore, camera in hand. As we got it to shore I saw
what appeared to be fountains of water shooting up from it’s
head. We bent over to look more closely. What we saw was amazing. There
was a large opening above each eyeball. With each breath the ray sucked
in water from somewhere below and squirted it out through it’s
eyes. The water shot straight up and to the side from each eye giving
it a sinister, almost diabolical look.
Back to fishing. The water had really dropped by now and the small
baylet we had traversed was now a mudflat all the way to the channel.
Good!, I thought to myself. The fish should all be off the flats and
concentrated in the channel. I remember shuffling along in the eelgrass
(always shuffle – that scares the rays) wondering how effective
that’s going to be as I was on top of the grass. Moving along and
casting I hooked a nice flattie of about 8-10 lbs and managed to farm
it during the landing. Moving further along I felt something wiggling
under my sandals and instinctively jumped. Another ray, I told Alex. A
few more steps and I’m on another ray. I jumped up and came down
on yet another ray. This one really made me nervous. Again, I leaped
with my right foot and, hoping to avoid contact, trying to minimize my
footprint by coming down with the heel. The foot slid down the sandals
exposing the uncovered heel and I came down full force on still another
ray.
Butterfly Ray
The pain, my friends, was unbelievable. It felt as though a sharp
dagger had been thrust into me. This was followed by a tearing
sensation. The poor beast had lodged it’s spine in me and was now
trying to escape. I could sense the flapping of it’s wings as the barb
tore flesh during this whole sequence of events. At this point in time
I let out a scream and threw my rod into the water (rusted reel
bearings be damned) which scared Alex half to death.
The pain did not diminish from the moment of impact. I could not tell
whether the fish was still attached to me, or the spine was left in the
heel, or whatever. Alex jumped up and screamed as well having stepped
on one, but luckily it didn’t draw flesh. The pain was so great that I
couldn’t put weight on that leg. I lay down on my side trying to see
the cause of it all. The examination revealed nothing extraordinary but
the pain remained unabated.
It was a good 200 yds to the truck. Limping on one leg I cursed
and swore the entire way. What now? My mind raced trying to remember
the posts on stingrays. Ah yes, it was coming back to me. I had to
either pee on it or submerge it in boiling water. Pee on it? What kind
of advice is that? I couldn’t do it even if I had to. I was in a mild
state of shock for crissake. Then I rememberd: that’s for jellyfish.
We got back to the truck and Alex set the water to boil. After
the water reached a temperature I could barely tolerate I placed my
foot into the pot. No change. I took it out and back in several times
without any change whatsoever. By now the side of my leg and the groin
area started to feel numb. I wondered just what kind of toxins were in
that barb. Then I noticed that the tip of my nose was also feeling
numb. I concluded that it was probably just a mild state of shock I was
experiencing.
The hell with home remedies, I thought, and decided to get professional
help. In the ensuing confusion Alex packed the stove by grabbing the
grate with his hands and burned his fingers badly. He needed ice right
away or they would blister. “It’s nothing, dad”, he told me but I knew
better.
We raced across the salt flats to abreojos, my injured foot on
the accelerator pedal. I grit my teeth and clenched the steering wheel
periodically to deal with the mounting pain.
You’re soft, you old fool – I told myself. Your cushy desk job
has made you soft. Where’s that legendary pain tolerance of your
forefathers? Look, your 11 year old son shows more courage and dignity
than you. Suck it up, for goshsakes!
Several well placed questions a Abreojos got us to the clinic.
Using my left leg and right toes I limped into the office and proceeded
to lay on the table. The doctor came in, stinking of gin (sorry amigos.
Four solid weeks of repeated Beatle songs has taken it’s toll on me)
and, after exchanging pleasantries, was told I’d need one shot in the
foot, another in the gluteus maximus (“culo” – was an inaccurate term,
he said), and some pills. Ninny that I am, I asked him if the shots
will hurt. A lot less than the sting, was the answer. Alex later
recalled that he lifted the loose flesh and inserted the needle into
the opening. I felt a mild sting.

A Sore Foot
Ahhhh! Miraculously, the relief was almost instantaneous. Within a minute all the pain was virtually gone.
I told the doctor about Alex’s burn and asked him for ice. The
man examined his hand, gave him some pills, and assured me that his
skin would be fine. Within hours the blister started to appear. The
skin died in the next few days of second degree burns.
I was so overjoyed at the relief that I paid the doctor twice what he
charged. He led us to a motel where I convalesced for a day, watching
TV, sleeping, and reading a book about Frederick the Great which I
found on the shelf.
Gradually I relaxed and a peculiar smile slowly spread across my face.
“Thank you, baja”, I thought to myself, “Once again,
thank you.”
A bit later, “ Should I tell them about this? Will they
understand?”, I asked. “They’ll think you’re
mad.”, came the response.
The End
